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ويسألونك عن مولد الهيدروجين الجاف ....دورة شبة كاملة

  1. #111
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    اقتباس المشاركة الأصلية كتبت بواسطة basem hamdy مشاهدة المشاركة
    السلام عليكم و رحمة الله .. سؤال بالنسبة للمحفز... هل نضع المحفز مرة واحدة فقط في بداية التشغيل أم مع كل مرة نزيد بها الماء؟
    السلام عليكم اسف على التاخير في الرد بالنسبة لسؤالك فاقول لك باختصار
    يوجد كثير من المواد الحفازة لكن لكل مادة تطبيق معين ...قد لا يصلح ان نستخدم تلك مكان زاك بحجة انها مادة حفازة وكله عند العرب صابون

    المادة الحفازة المناسبة :
    هي التى تعمل على تسريع او ابطاء التفاعل دون ان تستهلك


    وبناء على ما تقدم من تعريف للمادة الحفازة المناسبة اقول لك :
    هذا يعتمد على المادة الحفازة نفسها بمعنا اذا اخترت مادة حفازة مناسبة فلن تطضر الى اضافة مادة حفازة كل مرة تزود فيها الماء لان المادة الحفازة لا تدخل فى التفاعل من الاساس بل هي فقط تعمل على تسريع التفاعل ..الخ اما لو استخدمة مادة حفازة غير مناسبة لتطبيقك فيلزمك اضافت كمية منها عند كل اضافة للماء لانها تستهلك وتدخل فى التفاعل فلو مثلا استخدمنا الملح (كلوريد الصوديوم) فستجد انه دخل فى التفاعل واطلق غاز الكلور وهكذا

    باختصار من افضل المواد الحفازة تنفع لتطبيق المولدات الهيدروجينية هي هيدروكسيد البوتاسيوم وهيدروكسيد الصوديوم


    0 Not allowed!
    بسم الله الرحمن الرحيم
    "وقل إعملوا فسيرى الله عملكم ورسوله والمؤمنون"
    تجربتىالاولى وتجربتى الاخيرةوهى بحاجة الى تطوير فهل من مشترك


  2. #112
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    دوائر إلكترونية
    ستتعرف في هذا الدرس ان شاء الله على دوائر الكترونية مختلفة تؤدي وظائف مختلفة فيما يخص المولدات الالكترونية لكن ربما يسال احدنا ماذا سيستفيد من الدوائر الالكترونية وهو ليس له معرفة بالالكترونيات اقول لك اضعف الاشياء للعلم بالشيء ...مهلا هذا ليس كل شىء ...فبامكانك ان تتعلم الالكترونيات وتبني دوائرك الالكترونية بنفسك كيف ذلك ...هذا ما سنوضحك لك باذن الله ..على كل حال اهدي اليكم هذة القناه التي تعلمك كيف تتعرف على الدوائر الالكترونية من الالف الي الياء باذن الله

    قناه المهندس وليد عيسى على اليوتيوب لتعليم الالكترونات

    موقع المهندس وليد عيسى



    والان نبداء بنشر الدوائر الالكترونية

    اولا دائرة الكترونية لل PWM

    æíÓÃáæäß Úä ãæáÏ ÇáåíÏÑæÌíä ÇáÌÇÝ ....ÏæÑÉ ÔÈÉ ßÇãáÉ-pwm_with_555-jpg pwm_with_555-jpg

    اليكم دوائرة اخرى



    In a contest to get Dumb, Dumber, and Dumbest, the diagram below is getting close.
    By removing the LED light and 1K resistor, you would get a very simple circuit.
    The circuit below would probably "work", but I won't bother testing it.



    OK, here is Dumbest. To adjust frequency, change the 1K ( 1000 OHM ) resistor.
    To change the entire "range" of frequencies, change the 10uf ( Micro Farad) capacitor.
    The frequency is the time it takes the 1K to charge up the Cap, and the time it takes
    PIN 7 on the chip to DRAIN the Capacitor, through the variable resistor...
    I am not testing the circuit below, but "guess" that it "works". Note that GATE on the
    chosen MOSFET must be able to accept the full 12 Volt output pulse from Pin 3. If not,
    then add in some value of R for that particular MOSFET.


    IF you find a specific ON/OFF and Frequency that you need permanently, you can remove the variable
    50 K linear resistor, and just wire in the two values you need. This would be dumber than dumbest, and
    approaches brain-dead. If the MOSFET can handle the voltage at pin 3, this is getting very simplified. The
    entire PWM only uses 9 parts. By playing with the Frequency Resistor, and 20K, you can REMOVE the
    30K Ohm resistor as well, to result in only 8 PARTS needed.


    If you want the ON and the OFF rate to be "almost" 50 / 50, then you do not need the
    two diodes and the two resistors, so that the CHARGE rate and the DISS-CHARGE rate of the
    10 Micro Farad ( 10uF) capacitor are controlled ONLY by the FREQUENCY resistor.
    If you put in a 2 K or a 5K or a 10 K resistor, then all you vary is length of time that the
    ON / OFF time "cycle" is going to be. The result would be VERY FEW PARTS, at a
    permanently set pulse. In terms of Dumber, this would be vegetative; 5 parts needed.
    This circuit is so incredibly simple that I may test it when I put the next unit together, just
    for the fun of it. It is amazing to think that if connected to a 100 Amp MOSFET, this tiny
    circuit could control a hugely powerful load!

    AFTER reviewing a great many 555 diagrams from hundreds of projects on the internet, I found
    that many people were ELIMINATING the noise filter/reduction capacitor on pin 5, if they were
    using two 1.5 volt batteries ( +3 Volts), four battteries ( +6 Volts), a typical 9 Volt ( which
    seemed to be "the" project power source of choice,) or lead-acid +12 Volt power
    sources, and, if the frequencies were in the lower ranges. They did not get interference from noisy
    power, so there was no need for the capacitor. Almost ALL the diagrams had "some" sort of resistor
    between pin 6 and 7, and I have NOT TESTED the circuit above to see what happens when you
    leave it off. If you take away the capacitor at PIN 5, then there are only 4 parts needed!

    When I put together the TEST PWM, I am definitely trying the above circuit to see if
    it works... I will use a simple LED for the load. The circuit above, in the Dumber contest,
    would register as mineral, on the evolutionary scale. Even with a tiny resistor between
    Pins 6 and 7, if needed, it is still amazingly simple.





    ثانية مخطط بسيط لعمل دائرة لحساسي ال map/maf



    Parts List

    1. Multi-turn Cermet Potentiometer 1000 ohm


    1. LM317T Adjustable Voltage Regulator


    1. 220 ohm metal film resistor


    1. Small project box


    1. Small perf board


    1. Heat sink for Regulator


    1. SPDT toggle switch


    دائرة اخرى لل map/maf



    دائرة اخرى لل map/maf



    الصور المرفقة الصور المرفقة

    0 Not allowed!
    التعديل الأخير تم بواسطة ابوعبد الله المصرى ; 2017-06-26 الساعة 12:36 AM
    بسم الله الرحمن الرحيم
    "وقل إعملوا فسيرى الله عملكم ورسوله والمؤمنون"
    تجربتىالاولى وتجربتى الاخيرةوهى بحاجة الى تطوير فهل من مشترك


  3. #113
    عضو فعال جداً

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    تابع ثانية مخطط لعمل دائرة لمحسن لحساسي ال map/maf




    دائرة اخرى

    The MAP MAF Enhancer Circuit

    There's only 2 parts. Here's some Radio Shack part numbers that you can use:

    Pot: 50K Linear Taper Potentiometer, Radio Shack #271-1716
    Resistor: 47K Ohm Resistor, Radio Shack #271-1342 or #271-1131

    Note: The resistor and pot values don't have to be exact. Just try to keep their values in roughly the same proportions as the ones I've shown. These values aren't particularly special. I wouldn't use less than about 10K on the pot, and the resistor should be approximately the same value as the pot. On some vehicles, this combination of pot and resistor can be too sensitive, such that very tiny movements on the pot make large changes in air/fuel ratio. You can make the device less sensitive by using a larger resistor. Double the resistor size or even triple it, and you will find the device is much less sensitive.





    Cut the signal wire and connect the sensor side of the cut to one of the outside pot terminals. Connect the pot's center terminal to the computer side of the cut. See the diagram.
    Note: If you have a preference for which way the pot turns when you are leaning the air/fuel mix, then you'll need to select which outside terminal to use by doing the following: Turn the pot all the way (until it stops) in the direction you want to be the least effect. In other words, if you want to turn the pot clockwise to make the mix leaner, then turn the pot counter-clockwise all the way. Now measure the resistance between the center terminal and the 2 outside terminals one at a time. One of these outside terminals will show no resistance to the center terminal. That will be the terminal you want to use on the signal wire.
    The other outside terminal connects to ground, via the resistor. I recommend you use the ground that the sensor is using as per the diagram. You don't cut the ground wire. It must stay connected to the ECU. Instead, you'll tap into that circuit, as per the diagram.
    That's all there is to it. To set the pot, first turn the pot all way towards least effect. There will be almost no resistance between the ECU and the sensor on the signal wire. This is the stock setting, with no change in the sensor's signal. Then start your car. You can now gradually turn the pot and you will eventually notice that the idle runs slower and eventually rougher. Back off on the pot until the engine is running smooth again. Also test the car on the road and make sure you're not losing power. If you are, then you need to back off the pot some more until these symptoms disappear.
    Dual Edge MAP Enhancer

    If you want to get fancier, you can build the popular Dual Edge MAP Enhancer. Again, despite the name, this circuit works just as well on a MAF sensor. This is the same design as above, but has 2 of these circuits, and includes a switch to switch between them. That way you can set up one circuit for highway driving and the other for city driving. A switch is used to switch between the 2 circuits. This design also can switch between stock MAP/MAF signal and enhanced signal. This is the exact same circuit that you will find in virtually all of the MAP Enhancers you see being sold on Ebay and around on the internet. The diagram for this design is shown here:

    If you're not well versed in electronic schematic diagrams, there are only 3 different types of device used here. I think the resistors are self explanatory. You also have the pots and switches. The pots have 3 terminals. The center terminal in the diagram is the center terminal on the pot too. Similarly with the switches, the center terminal in the diagram is the center terminal on the switch. Make sure you get SPDT switches. If you don't know what what a pot or an SPDT switch it, then google it. These are simple devices that are described very well in many internet documents.

    Finally, if you would still prefer one that is pre-made for you, we offer one that has a few extra features. Ours uses the same design you see in the diagram above. But it also has a couple of added features. The on/off switch also switches the power for your HHO cell. There is an extra output wire from our MAP Enhancer that you can use to turn on your PWM, or if you don't have a PWM, use it to drive a relay for your cell. That way, when you turn on your MAP Enhancer, your cell also turns on. They are then only on together or off together and you have a remote on/off switch for you cell. Also, ours has an LED that indicates at a glance if the system is on or off. You can find our Dual Edge MAP Enhancer at the link below:


    بعض صور محسن map/maf












    0 Not allowed!
    التعديل الأخير تم بواسطة ابوعبد الله المصرى ; 2017-06-29 الساعة 02:09 PM
    بسم الله الرحمن الرحيم
    "وقل إعملوا فسيرى الله عملكم ورسوله والمؤمنون"
    تجربتىالاولى وتجربتى الاخيرةوهى بحاجة الى تطوير فهل من مشترك


  4. #114
    عضو فعال جداً

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    تابع : اولا دائرة الكترونية لل PWM



    بعض صور لل pwm










    0 Not allowed!
    التعديل الأخير تم بواسطة ابوعبد الله المصرى ; 2017-06-29 الساعة 02:17 PM
    بسم الله الرحمن الرحيم
    "وقل إعملوا فسيرى الله عملكم ورسوله والمؤمنون"
    تجربتىالاولى وتجربتى الاخيرةوهى بحاجة الى تطوير فهل من مشترك


  5. #115

  6. #116
    عضو فعال جداً

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    اقتباس المشاركة الأصلية كتبت بواسطة samestra مشاهدة المشاركة
    الف شكر على الموضوع الرائع بالتوقيق للجميع
    السلام عليكم ..اخى العفو ونتمنى ان تكون استفدت من هذة المادة


    0 Not allowed!
    بسم الله الرحمن الرحيم
    "وقل إعملوا فسيرى الله عملكم ورسوله والمؤمنون"
    تجربتىالاولى وتجربتى الاخيرةوهى بحاجة الى تطوير فهل من مشترك


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